A Diversion - The Inglenook is Born

If you're anything at all like me, you feel a certain sense of guilt when the itch to start a new layout project comes along.

It seems that the unspoken mantra is this: completion is everything. If you haven't wired, scenicked, and operated the bejeesuz out of your current layout before moving on to another project, it's just a sign that you are a failure as a person and incapable of finishing anything.

Let's lose that mindset.

I'm guilty of starting many stalled projects myself; some of which are currently still residing in the garage, in various states of completion. But, at the risk of sounding too "zen," completion is not the goal. It's the journey getting there.

I like to think of it as being akin to any other art form; an artist may be courting his muse on any number of projects at any given time. The whim to work on one, versus the other, varies and changes with mood. So, if you're like me, and starting layouts seems to be your strong suit, then rejoice! It's all part of the creative process, and, hell, you're having fun.

Have I justified myself yet? Because I started a new layout today. I give you...for lack of a better title..."The Inglenook."

The classic Inglenook Sidings switching puzzle has always interested me. It's so simple, and has a lot of "play" factor. An inglenook layout doesn't take extensive car staging, switchlists, or waybills. On a whim, you can just turn it on and go. As I develop more and understand my wants and needs in a layout, I find that the "easy" switch to operations is the way to go for me. As much as I want to love the idea of extended switching ops, car routing, etc., I just don't.  I like to see trains go around in circles, or do simple switching puzzles like this.

I decided to create a very focused list of goals for this layout:

1. Ultra Lightweight (but strong) Benchwork (no metal fasteners, thin luan plywood, minimal foam)

2. *Perfect* operating trackwork. Handlaid. Highly detailed (switch stands). Even power distribution. In gauge, no bumps or kinks.

3. "Indoor Ready" install features; cabinet-grade fascia finish, elegant and clean plug-in interfaces for power and control; finished level of scenery.

4. Easy-peasy DC operation.

5. Option for removable backdrop or lighted valance?

6. Rolling stock must be weighted, micro-trains couplers added, roll freely with no springing or wobble (i.e., PROTOTYPICAL OPERATION!)

7. Design a card-shuffle system to randomize play.

With these goals in mind, I decided to tackle the benchwork. The evening opened up after a cancelled rehearsal.

Everything is thin luan plywood (5mm thick). No fasteners, all glue and clamps.

Glueing and clamping the end blocks.

The Frame 

Stiffeners support the countersunk plywood top

The finished benchwork, with "temp bridge" in place.

I'm pretty amazed how quickly this all came together. It was about 4 hours of work total, from raw 2x4 plywood panels to fnished product.

You'll note my move from foam-based construction to all-wood. While a foam top supported by a plywood frame "tray" would have been a bit lighter, I'm not so happy about the loud sound reverberation from a foam-top table. Plus, foam was the more expensive option. This was a good way to test my theory of using very thin ply to create a relatively lightweight, strong benchwork.

Next up: building a truss bridge and handlaying the track. I have two turnouts already made, and I'll be using Marsh Creek Models' truss bridge plans to build a bridge from basswood. See you soon!

Dirt!

In a rare stroke of effort, I went out to the garage and actually did something on the layout today.

Zip texturing applied, waiting for it to dry. I really like the effect of the track weathering and the contrast with the dirt.

Dirt!

While much of the dirt will be covered in static grass and ground foam, I find it satisfying to lay down a base layer of dirt before applying the ballast and the vegetation.

Previously, I tried using unsanded grout on my N scale layout. While the texture and color was great, the reaction with the glue created a strange, glossy finish to the dirt. Also, the grout tended to "float" above the baseboard as a solid layer, meaning it would crack and pull up during passes with a vaccum cleaner. No bueno.

So, I'm trying a technique that is new to me, but not new to the model railroading world: zip texturing.

Zip texturing is a tinting and texturing method using a mix of tempra paints and plaster of paris. The paints serve as the tinting agent, and the plaster of paris binds it together when wet.

Following some online tutorials, I mixed one part each of black, brown, and yellow to twenty-four parts plaster of paris for my tan-colored dirt. There are other "recipes" that will result in different earth tones; I'm thinking that I will mix some different variants to add washes of other colors and textures.

The texture is nice; hoping that it stays affixed that way.

Laying it on couldn't be simpler. Track is masked off. The surface is misted with water, and then the "dirt" is applied thinly using a tea strainer. Then, one more pass with the mister to wet everything down thoroughly.

Any missed spots were wet down again, then more "dirt" was sifted on top and moistened again. The whole job took about 30 minutes. I'm waiting for it to dry now. Keeping my fingers crossed for success!

I left the areas where the buildings will be going blank for now; that way, I can plan out foundations and roads first, then lay dirt in around them.

Keen eyes will note some bright yellow granules; that's yellow tempra that didn't quite mix in well. I will fix it by going back in with some drybrushing, or, cover it with grass. It's a good reminder to mix everything really well the next time around. 

I'll post back here once I determine if the zip texturing was a success!