Escape from the Doldrums, or, on the Coming New Year

Happy New Year's Eve everyone! I hope the holiday season has been good to everyone.

The holidays have always been a busy time for me as a musician. While many modelers use the winter weather and holiday breaks to retreat to the modeling room, I had only two days off during December, days I utilized to be around family and friends. Suffice to say the modeling workshop has been gathering dust all season.

Of course, this is the time of year when one traditionally takes a good, long look at their personal and professional life, and prepares a giant laundry list of things to change for the better. I'm certainly doing the same, but experience has taught me that focus on a small amount (or single) goal yields better results.

Returning to a theme I found myself considering last year, two words come to mind:

Simplify.

Focus.

OK, so what? In general, it boils down to applying a minimalist mindset to my personal, professional, and recreational endeavors. Here are a few areas where I'd like to streamline things in the modeling world:

1. Scale Focus: HOn30. It's clear my current focus in my home projects lie in this narrow-gauge scale. My N-scale shelf layout has been functioning as a giant storage shelf for almost a year now; the track, components, and rolling stock could be better purposed on my father's N-scale project, and the wall space it takes up could serve as a swappable shelf area to mount my current projects.

My N-scale Junk shelf. It's time to say goodbye...

2. Project Priority. As many modelers do, I tend to accumulate a lot of projects. Some of them get started and lose momentum mid-stream. Others are still in their boxes. That's fine, and it's part of the creative process; but I feel that my time would be best utilized if I cataloged, organized, and prioritized the projects that will contribute to my current overall goals. Projects that I have clearly lost interest in or otherwise abandoned should be sold off, given away, or trashed.

Finding a clearer understanding of the areas of the hobby that give me the most enjoyment will help me focus on projects that are more fulfilling. My recent work on a wooden truss bridge and a small inglenook sidings layout have re-affirmed my love for scratchbuilding.

3. Eliminate Clutter. This is the age-old demon in the garage, and it ties into #2 as well. Clutter is off-putting; it demotivates any urge to go out to the garage and work on something, and makes for a difficult time organizing and finding tools and materials mid-stream. I've done a lot of good work creating spaces, drawers and organizers at the workbench to collect and organize my tools and materials; it's a good idea to develop a habit of creating a clean "blank slate" at the end of each work session to keep my enthusiasm and enjoyment in the space moving forward.

I'm looking forward to finding some time to hit the workbench again soon as the holidays come to a close. Hopefully there will be lots more to share here in the coming months.

On another topic:

I'd like to thank Rich Brungard (of Marsh Creek Miniatures) for a nice mention in his blog recently. You can read the post here. In addition to being an enthusiastic supporter of the modeling community and a fantastic modeler himself, Rich and his home-based company produce some really fantastic HOn30 kits and parts which are rapidly filling the "holes" in this fledgling scales' product line and making it easier for modelers to obtain rolling stock, trucks, and more. Rich has been a great cornerstone of support in the HOn30 community and his work continues to inspire me (and others) to head out to the workbench and "build something awesome," as he puts it. Keep up the great work, Rich!

A Diversion - The Inglenook is Born

If you're anything at all like me, you feel a certain sense of guilt when the itch to start a new layout project comes along.

It seems that the unspoken mantra is this: completion is everything. If you haven't wired, scenicked, and operated the bejeesuz out of your current layout before moving on to another project, it's just a sign that you are a failure as a person and incapable of finishing anything.

Let's lose that mindset.

I'm guilty of starting many stalled projects myself; some of which are currently still residing in the garage, in various states of completion. But, at the risk of sounding too "zen," completion is not the goal. It's the journey getting there.

I like to think of it as being akin to any other art form; an artist may be courting his muse on any number of projects at any given time. The whim to work on one, versus the other, varies and changes with mood. So, if you're like me, and starting layouts seems to be your strong suit, then rejoice! It's all part of the creative process, and, hell, you're having fun.

Have I justified myself yet? Because I started a new layout today. I give you...for lack of a better title..."The Inglenook."

The classic Inglenook Sidings switching puzzle has always interested me. It's so simple, and has a lot of "play" factor. An inglenook layout doesn't take extensive car staging, switchlists, or waybills. On a whim, you can just turn it on and go. As I develop more and understand my wants and needs in a layout, I find that the "easy" switch to operations is the way to go for me. As much as I want to love the idea of extended switching ops, car routing, etc., I just don't.  I like to see trains go around in circles, or do simple switching puzzles like this.

I decided to create a very focused list of goals for this layout:

1. Ultra Lightweight (but strong) Benchwork (no metal fasteners, thin luan plywood, minimal foam)

2. *Perfect* operating trackwork. Handlaid. Highly detailed (switch stands). Even power distribution. In gauge, no bumps or kinks.

3. "Indoor Ready" install features; cabinet-grade fascia finish, elegant and clean plug-in interfaces for power and control; finished level of scenery.

4. Easy-peasy DC operation.

5. Option for removable backdrop or lighted valance?

6. Rolling stock must be weighted, micro-trains couplers added, roll freely with no springing or wobble (i.e., PROTOTYPICAL OPERATION!)

7. Design a card-shuffle system to randomize play.

With these goals in mind, I decided to tackle the benchwork. The evening opened up after a cancelled rehearsal.

Everything is thin luan plywood (5mm thick). No fasteners, all glue and clamps.

Glueing and clamping the end blocks.

The Frame 

Stiffeners support the countersunk plywood top

The finished benchwork, with "temp bridge" in place.

I'm pretty amazed how quickly this all came together. It was about 4 hours of work total, from raw 2x4 plywood panels to fnished product.

You'll note my move from foam-based construction to all-wood. While a foam top supported by a plywood frame "tray" would have been a bit lighter, I'm not so happy about the loud sound reverberation from a foam-top table. Plus, foam was the more expensive option. This was a good way to test my theory of using very thin ply to create a relatively lightweight, strong benchwork.

Next up: building a truss bridge and handlaying the track. I have two turnouts already made, and I'll be using Marsh Creek Models' truss bridge plans to build a bridge from basswood. See you soon!

Dirt!

In a rare stroke of effort, I went out to the garage and actually did something on the layout today.

Zip texturing applied, waiting for it to dry. I really like the effect of the track weathering and the contrast with the dirt.

Dirt!

While much of the dirt will be covered in static grass and ground foam, I find it satisfying to lay down a base layer of dirt before applying the ballast and the vegetation.

Previously, I tried using unsanded grout on my N scale layout. While the texture and color was great, the reaction with the glue created a strange, glossy finish to the dirt. Also, the grout tended to "float" above the baseboard as a solid layer, meaning it would crack and pull up during passes with a vaccum cleaner. No bueno.

So, I'm trying a technique that is new to me, but not new to the model railroading world: zip texturing.

Zip texturing is a tinting and texturing method using a mix of tempra paints and plaster of paris. The paints serve as the tinting agent, and the plaster of paris binds it together when wet.

Following some online tutorials, I mixed one part each of black, brown, and yellow to twenty-four parts plaster of paris for my tan-colored dirt. There are other "recipes" that will result in different earth tones; I'm thinking that I will mix some different variants to add washes of other colors and textures.

The texture is nice; hoping that it stays affixed that way.

Laying it on couldn't be simpler. Track is masked off. The surface is misted with water, and then the "dirt" is applied thinly using a tea strainer. Then, one more pass with the mister to wet everything down thoroughly.

Any missed spots were wet down again, then more "dirt" was sifted on top and moistened again. The whole job took about 30 minutes. I'm waiting for it to dry now. Keeping my fingers crossed for success!

I left the areas where the buildings will be going blank for now; that way, I can plan out foundations and roads first, then lay dirt in around them.

Keen eyes will note some bright yellow granules; that's yellow tempra that didn't quite mix in well. I will fix it by going back in with some drybrushing, or, cover it with grass. It's a good reminder to mix everything really well the next time around. 

I'll post back here once I determine if the zip texturing was a success!

The Summer Doldrums

Hello, dear readership.

What has come of the Marmion Valley lately?

I find myself in the dreaded summer doldrums, in relation to the railroad. This is common, I think, with most that indulge in our craft; summer brings hot weather, vacation plans, and increased family commitments.

For me, this summer has been intensely busy not only with the family, but also with work. As a professional musician, my schedule ramps up intensely during periods of time where "normal folks" are off on vacations and weekends. I won't lie, I'm a bit burnt out; but it has been a lot of fun too. My band got the chance to tour to Oshkosh, Wisconsin, to take part in an event that happened in conjunction with the giant EAA Airventure airshow.

This event really rekindled my love of aviation, and inspired me to re-start flight training that I began in 2008.

Hey! That's not a train!

The band has also been performing regularly at local venues, and recently toured to Las Vegas to be a part of the Toastmasters' International conference, onstage at Caesar's Palace.

Couple all of this activity with the weeks-long, record setting local heat wave has increased the temperatures in my garage work space to plus-100 degrees, and you can see why I haven't been out working on the railroad lately.

Quite frankly, though, this might be one of the beautiful things about our hobby. Who hasn't been in this situation at one point or another? When the time and mood is right, we can walk right back into our workshop and start in again. Taking a sabbatical like this might also help re-kindle the creative juices, or unearth a new focus or interest.

I find that my involvement in the hobby as it stands at this moment has been reading and digesting information from fellow bloggers and like-minded individuals in online communities like Facebook. There is a great Facebook group that is focused on HOn30 and 009 modeling, where many of the discussions help lead ideas about how to promote this niche scale that we work in. 

I'm also attracted to the crafstman-like approaches of modeler/bloggers like Mike Cougill, Lance Mindheim, Trevor Marshall, Chris Mears, and Dave Frary (to name a few). These writers and modelers elevate the idea and concept of our hobby into a "craft," as Cougill puts it; viewing it through the lens of an art form in terms of composition and application, and using it as a vehicle for personal growth and progress, especially in the sense of holding yourself to a high standard of quality and attention to detail. 

I know the coming fall and winter months will bring some time to get back to work and enjoy some time with the trains once again; I'm excited to share things with you all here as things get rolling once more. Stay tuned!

Handlaid HOn30 Turnout, Mark II

I decided to start on another handlaid HOn30 turnout. My first concepts for the hinged point system were successful, and I was confident I could improve upon my last try.

I've been researching soldering techniques, and recently upgraded my soldering iron setup. I've mentioned this before, but I used to hate soldering. With a passion. I have a legacy of awkward, sloppy, botched solder joints to attest for that.

However, as I've delved into DCC and handlaid track, soldering has become a necessity, so I've invested time reading and researching the topic extensively. As a result of that research (and a lot of practice), I find I'm starting to enjoy soldering much more lately as I apply the concepts I learn to make cleaner, tidier work.

It's the details that become important in the soldering process; an appropriately shaped fine-tip, for one. Being fastidious about cleaning and tinning the tip after every solder joint. Oh, and the granddaddy of all soldering rules: USE FLUX!

Compare the joints on the straight stock rail (first install) to those of the diverging route (second); even in this build, the joints got better as I worked through the turnout.

The blobby solder joint near the top really stands out. However, I'm fairly happy how clean the web of the rail is; no gobs of solder seeping between the foot and head of the rail.

I'm finding a new determination to make each piece of work better than the last. This applies to not only this turnout, but each kit, paint job, coupler installation, scenic treatment, etc. Finding improvements to my skill set, and seeing the results improve with each try is really becoming a rewarding part of this hobby for me.

A New Pup for the Litter

Minitrains products have re-invigorated the HOn30 market. This month, their highly anticipated Forney 0-4-4 loco was released, and I couldn't resist pulling the trigger on this gorgeous little loco.

She runs as smoothly as the other Minitrains stock, and has a lot of character to her "look." Something will have to be done about that ugly red wire, though. It passes through the chassis to power the directional lighting; there is a small headlight behind the tender, a necessity on a Forney expected to run for a good half of its working life in reverse.

My power pack died, so I'm relying on a 9v battery to test the loco; this allows me one speed: lightning! Here's a short video flyby of the Forney with rocket-boosters engaged.

Track Painting, Pt. 2; or, "What Not To Do."

I continued with my track painting project the last couple nights.

After I gave the base "tan" coat a full 24 hours to cure, it was time to paint the rails. This required masking; because of the width of the tape, I had to do one rail at a time.

File under: Pain in the a**.

My plan was to use Floquil "roof brown" for the rails. Hey, I happened to have an aerosol can of it on hand! Lucky me! Let's just spray bomb the masked off rails! It will work perfectly and I won't have to clean up the airbrush!

Nope.

While the rails painted fine with the "spray bomb," there was a TON of bleed-under through the tape. Plus, the overspray got everywhere.

Yuck.

Some areas turned out OK, but in general I discovered that this project was going to require some touch-ups.

So, I decided to transition to the airbrush for the other rail. Masking first; I ran out of blue tape halfway through, which ended up being a good thing. Another learning moment: the white masking tape creates a cleaner line and is a bit easier to work with.

I'm still messing with the right formula for spraying Polly S through the airbrush. I suppose it won't be an issue once I run out of the paint, since they're not making it anymore...in any case, I laid down a coat with the airbrush and was rewarded with a much cleaner result.

Lesson 2: use the %&^($@ airbrush, dummy.

So, because of the overspray, I went in with a small flat brush and did touchups along the ties and spikes. This was the tedium I was trying to avoid in the first place, but the result worked out OK:

Touchups...looks much better!

So, from here, it was time for a liberal application of Grimy Black weathering powder to tone down the colors and blend everything together. Not much science to this part; grab a crappy brush and start slopping it on!

Pretty happy with the result; will look much better when ballasted. I might go back and do some selective application of some earth tones and rust.

I celebrated my finished track with a cold beer and some trains.

The sisters stage a meet.

The new addition even had a chance to pull the "varnish" for a bit.

I'm still deciding what direction to go with this new loco as far as detailing and kit-bashing. Add it to the project list...my 4-4-0 is still waiting in the wings impatiently as well.

That's all for now! Hopefully will have a few more work sessions this week to start getting basic ground cover and ballast in. I discovered a new ballasting method that I'm eager to try out and share.

Track Painting Pt. 1, and a New Concept for a Backdrop.

Hello folks! Summer continues to be busy, but I had some time to mull over some design decisions as well as get into the garage tonight for a short work session.

The weather is cooling down a bit, so after the sun started to set I took advantage of the breezy dusk to spend some time in the garage. I really enjoy work sessions with the garage door open when the weather is mild and brisk like today was.

I've been enjoying my new airbrush, so I thought I'd finally get around to painting my track. As described in another post, my plan all along has been to use the method described in Joey Ricard's track painting video:

The basic idea is that you apply a base "tooth" coat of flat black, followed by light suede craft paint for the ties, and a rust-colored solution of powders and alcohol to the rails; then, everything is "dumbed down" in color gradient using a wash of black-grey powders. In my test trials, I've had good success with this method, but there are a few drawbacks for my application:

1. Craft Paints- the amount of time it takes to hand paint the ties is prohibitive, even on a small layout like mine. Also, in HO scale, the thickness of the craft paint obscures the finer woodgrain detail on the ties.

2. Rust Powders- in my tests, the pastel/alcohol solution never stuck to the base coat on the rail web.

I decided to break out the airbrush to help solve the above problems. I could lay a much finer coat of paint that way, in a much shorter amount of time.

First, a base coat of grimy black went on.

Then, I laid in the "suede" color on the ties; this is Polly Scale "earth."

I'm actually more pleased with this effect. There is a subtle counter-shading effect resulting from the black undercoat, as well as some variation in the tie shading that I think will help the final product once the weathering wash is laid in.

After taking some time away from the layout, I've had some time to reconsider some design decisions. Here are two sections that have been bothering me, scenically:

Visually, the terrain doesn't make sense; why would the MVRR inexplicably build curves through two deep cuts?. It looks cartoonish and fake. It spoils an otherwise gently rolling landscape. Furthermore, I'm bothered by the fact that the track in the back will be visible; it again spoils the depth of the scene.

I realized the problem is the basic fact that I am dealing with only 16" of depth in the scene. If I really want to create an illusion of depth, I have to completely hide the back of the layout with a backdrop.

Hence, this idea:

I had originally avoided using a mid-layout backdrop because the exit/entry points where the track must duck through are usually hard to hide. However, I think the tradeoff is worth it in this case. 

Perhaps a backdrop of the photo-realistic kind would be most appropriate. I'd love to give Trackside Scenery's products a test in this regard.

The hardest part is going to be reverse engineering a way to mount the backdrop in place. Still brainstorming that particular idea.

So, with my idea solidified, I ripped out the offending topography.

That's it for now! I always appreciate feedback and suggestions, if you care to leave any in the comments.

Summer Daze

Between my busy performance schedule and the kids' summer vacation time, I've not had much time for work around the 'ol train space. I had some time today, so I decided to try out my new double-action airbrush I got on eBay for $15.00.

#2 was in need of a more detailed weathering job, so I went at her as follows:

1. Light fade coat of Grimy Black
2. Ash and steam scaling with Light Concrete
3. Undercarriage dusting with Earth
4. Highlight Drybrushing/streaking with a mix of Earth and Concrete

I'm fairly happy with how everything came out, though the weathering is a bit on the heavy side.

The coaches got a light undercarriage hazing with the earth mixture as well; I might do a bit of drybrushing also, since I enjoy the effect.

In recent weeks, I've been working on finishing my flatcar kits from Marsh Creek Models:

The oxide red mixture was actually the first thing I airbrushed with my new brush. Still need to add some touchups and paint the brake staff/hanger a different color. Well, of course, and add the trucks and wheelsets.

Regarding the airbrush; I'm very pleased with the action of the brush, and it lays color beautifully. Really quite a steal, as this is my first double-action gravity feed. I'm spraying straight Polly S acrylic, diluted with several drops of 70% iso alcohol and mixed in the cup. I set the brush around 15 psi for the fade coats during weathering, and at about 20-25 for laying heavier coats. In general, I can spray at lower psi than with my Paasche single-action.

Two tools, found on Amazon, have proven invaluable to my airbrushing process: my airbrush cleaning pot and a bottle of airbrush cleaning solvent. Really makes the process of cleaning the brush and switching colors a snap.

In other news: I found another one of these and couldn't resist snapping her up.

I haven't decided if I'll use another Toma Model Works body kit (like #2), or if I'll keep and detail/repaint the stock body.